This morning, I set off with a new plan in hand, freshly put together with the help of the owner of the hotel. The main objective for the day was to get to Applecross and cross the Bealach na Bà, which I had been told was one of the most scenic parts of the entire trip. It was going to be a long day, but with the weather looking so good, I wanted to make the most of it.
As I set off, the drive was wonderfully still, and I stopped at several places along the way to take photographs. I’ve tried to highlight some of the areas along the route so you can get an appreciation of the types of places I was seeing. The scenery was absolutely stunning.
Beinn Eighe
The first major highlight was Beinn Eighe, an impressive mountain landscape near Kinlochewe. The area is home to Beinn Eighe and Loch Maree Islands National Nature Reserve, established in 1951 and the UK’s oldest National Nature Reserve. It covers around 48 square kilometres, stretching from the shores of Loch Maree up into the mountains. The landscape combines rugged peaks, ancient Caledonian pine woodland and open Highland scenery. Even from the road, the scale of the mountains was impressive. On a clear day, the combination of mountains, lochs and open sky makes this section of the route particularly memorable.
Ardheslaig
From here, the road headed towards Ardheslaig, a tiny settlement on the shore of Loch Shieldaig. This was one of those places where the journey itself became the attraction. The road winds along the coastline, with the water on one side and the mountains rising dramatically on the other.
There isn’t a huge amount here in terms of traditional tourist attractions, but that is exactly what makes it special. It feels remote, peaceful and wonderfully untouched. I found myself stopping simply to take in the views rather than because there was a particular landmark to see.
Shieldaig
I then reached Shieldaig, one of the prettiest villages on this part of the route. The village sits beside Loch Shieldaig, with a small island just offshore and a collection of traditional buildings clustered around the water. Shieldaig has a lovely fishing-village character, and the setting is spectacular. The combination of the brightly colored buildings, calm water and surrounding mountains made it another place where I simply had to stop and take some photographs.
Applecross
From Shieldaig, the road continued towards Applecross, a place I had been particularly looking forward to seeing. Applecross isn’t simply one village; it refers to the wider peninsula, with a collection of small communities spread around the coastline. The area is known in Gaelic as A’ Chomraich, meaning “The Sanctuary”, reflecting its long religious history. What struck me most was the feeling of isolation. Applecross has a genuine end-of-the-road atmosphere, surrounded by mountains, coastline and open countryside. It is easy to understand why people come here to get away from everything. For me, though, this was really about the drive and the landscape. And the best was still to come.
Bealach na Bà
Then came the Bealach na Bà, or “Pass of the Cattle”. This was the part of the journey I had been warned about, and it certainly lived up to the reputation. The road climbs and descends dramatically through a series of extremely tight hairpin bends, reminiscent of an Alpine pass. They certainly focus the mind. Historically, the route was an important way of driving cattle across to markets, and the modern road follows the line of that old route across the mountains. That pass over the mountain was one of the craziest drives I’ve ever done.
The hairpin bends were really tight and the drop-off was extremely steep. I even saw a motorcyclist come off during his passage across the pass, which was a stark reminder to be careful.
Once I reached the bottom, though, the sense of achievement was fantastic. Looking back up at the road I had just driven, surrounded by mountains and with the landscape stretching away in every direction, made it one of the most exhilarating and unforgettable drives of the entire trip. I left the pass thinking it couldn’t possibly be topped. I was wrong!
Eilean Donan Castle
I didn’t think the pass could be topped until I reached the next two places. To be honest, I couldn’t choose between them. Both were castles, but both were completely different, and the scale and beauty of their settings were unimaginable. The first was Eilean Donan Castle, one of Scotland’s most recognizable castles. It sits on a small island where three sea lochs meet, surrounded by mountains and water. The location alone makes it extraordinary. The castle has a remarkable history. A fortified castle was established here in the medieval period, and Eilean Donan later became involved in the Jacobite struggles. In 1719, the castle was occupied by Spanish troops supporting the Jacobite’s and was subsequently bombarded and largely destroyed. It remained in ruins for almost 200 years before restoration began in 1912, with the reconstructed castle completed in 1932. Standing there on such a beautiful day, it was easy to understand why this has become such an iconic Scottish image. The combination of the castle, the water and the surrounding mountains was almost too perfect.
Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle
From Eilean Donan, I continued towards Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. Urquhart Castle occupies an extraordinary position on a rocky promontory overlooking Loch Ness. The ruins date back many centuries, and the castle played an important role in the conflicts between the Scots and English, as well as later struggles involving the Lords of the Isles and the Grant family. The castle was finally abandoned as a military stronghold in 1692 after government troops blew up parts of it. The setting is what makes Urquhart so special. From the ruins, you get an enormous view along Loch Ness, and on a clear day the loch seems to stretch forever. The view along Loch Ness was absolutely the most memorable sight of the entire trip. As a bonus, I also saw (captured on video) something big moving under the water! Nessie???
The weather, lighting, everything was perfect. I just stood there in awe for a while. After taking it all in, I called a few friends so that I could share the experience with them. It was one of those moments where photographs really don’t do the view justice. You have to actually stand there and experience it.
Drumnadrochit
Having finished at Urquhart Castle, I decided to stay as close as I could and headed into Drumnadrochit. I found a fantastic bed and breakfast close to the village center, which was ideal after such a long day on the road. Drumnadrochit is also a stopping point for walkers following the Great Glen Way, which passes through the village (I must do that walk)!
After checking in and getting myself sorted, I spent the last part of the evening at Fiddler’s, a traditional Highland restaurant and whisky bar in the center of the village. It has a remarkable selection of more than 500 whiskies, so it seemed like the perfect place to finish the day.
Today was one of the best days on the road that I’ve ever had. The weather was fantastic, the roads were incredible and the scenery was breathtaking from beginning to end. The Bealach na Bà was an exhilarating drive, Eilean Donan looked almost unreal, and then there was Loch Ness.
I’d never seen Loch Ness before, and standing on its shores in those conditions, with the light and the weather absolutely perfect, it was probably the best view I’d seen on the whole trip. Even Nessy showed up (maybe), I captured something on video and pictures!
It had been an amazing day, and one that I knew I would remember for a very long time.
LC
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