Day 51 IT Pontremoli to Aulla

Pontremoli to Aulla

Last night was one of the most incredible experiences I’d ever had. The sounds and noises of an ancient castle at night, when completely alone, were truly mesmerizing. It felt like the ghosts of the past lingered, and I could almost hear the echoes of armies battling outside the castle gates. It was a fantastic experience to be surrounded by such history in such an intimate way.

I left Pontremoli early this morning, just as the sun began to rise. The town was already buzzing with activity. By 6:45 AM, the local markets were setting up, and the streets were gradually filling with people preparing for the day. I’d enjoyed my stay there and wished I could have stayed longer, but today I set my sights on the next leg of my journey—heading towards the ocean. It felt like the perfect day to make some progress.

The hike was a solo one today. Some of the people I’d met were staying behind in the village, while others weren’t hiking as far as I was. One person I’d been keeping track of decided to head home, leaving me alone on the trail. It was a different experience, but I embraced the solitude.

The morning hike was strenuous but beautiful. The inclines and declines weren’t as extreme as the day before, and the surrounding nature was majestic. The air was fresh and invigorating.

After two hours, I stopped at a local bakery and treated myself to two croissants and a Twix bar—something I hadn’t had in years. The Twix seemed smaller than I remembered, but it was still delicious and gave me the energy I needed to continue hiking through the woods.

While trekking through the forest, I met an old Italian man out for his morning exercise. “Just me and nature,” he said with a smile. He’d worked in Milan but moved to the countryside after retirement, choosing a peaceful life among the vineyards and farmlands. He looked content, taking in the simple pleasures of the land. It was a beautiful reminder of how peace can be found in the most unexpected places.

I passed through Virgoletta, a small village tucked away in the hills. Its cobblestone streets and rustic charm gave it an almost timeless feel. The locals were warm and welcoming, and the views of the village from the river were incredible. The house must of been six story’s high. It was one of those hidden gems that made the journey so rewarding.

Wild Boar!

Now, about those wild boars—if you ever encounter them, don’t mess with them! I’ve never been so startled in my life as when I stumbled upon a group of wild boars in the woods. There had young ones around and they weren’t happy to see me. Luckily, I froze in place, and they decided to move off, making the most peculiar noises as they went. Definitely an unexpected adventure on the trail—one that made my heart race for a moment!

The wild boar population in the Apennines has increased over the years, and they’ve started venturing more into populated areas. They’re often seen foraging along hiking trails, especially in the early mornings or late evenings. While they’re generally not aggressive unless provoked, it’s always a good idea to remain calm and give them space. In boar territory, staying alert and cautious is key.

I arrived in Aulla around 1:30 PM, and the town immediately struck me with its industrial vibe. Unlike the picturesque villages I’d passed through, Aulla had a more utilitarian feel, with factories and warehouses giving it an unmistakably modern, urban atmosphere. Still, it had its charm, especially when I looked closely at the historic center and the ancient castle that loomed over the town.

Situated at the foot of the Apennine Mountains, Aulla serves as a crossroads between Liguria and Tuscany, giving it a unique blend of cultural influences. Despite its modern feel, Aulla has a surprising amount of history. It was an important strategic location during the Middle Ages, and remnants of that past were visible in its architecture and old streets.

Another unforgettable night in Italy! I started off with some beers with the French crew, then headed to a charming restaurant where I indulged in some amazing pasta and local wine. Of course, no day in Italy would be complete without gelato—it’s become a daily must, even if it’s adding up on the calorie count!

Tomorrow promises to be another great day, though it’s a short one, it’s bound to be a tough one. A few of us who’ve met along the way will be gathering, which should make for a fun time. And hopefully, I’ll get a chance to see the sea, too!