Day 43 IT Mortara to Pavia

Mortara to Pavia

It’s a lot cooler this morning, and thankfully it looks like it will stay that way for the next few days. It’s important to make the most of this window—because in just a couple of days, the heat is expected to climb back near 100°F (38°C)!

For now, I’m just trying to push through this stretch. We’re deep in the flatlands: rice fields, cornfields, and God knows what other kinds of fields. In a few days, I’ll be turning toward the coast and then down to Lucca, which I’m really looking forward to. But until then, it’s time to grind it out—visit some charming towns, sip some great wine, and keep walking.

Garlasco: Industry, Charm, and a Curious Past

The first town of the day was Garlasco—a small town that definitely has a small-town feel, though with a more industrial vibe than some of the quaint villages I’ve passed through recently. I enjoyed walking its quiet streets.
Garlasco sits in the Lombardy region and dates back to Roman times, but it’s perhaps best known for its connection to prehistoric cremation practices. More recently, Garlasco has been an agricultural hub and a quiet commuter town.

Along the way, I met another hiker from Cologne—who is sleeping every night in a hammock! He started walking from Canterbury and was having trouble finding trees close enough together to hang his hammock in this region! You meet some characters on the road… but hey, rice fields don’t make for great hammocks opportunities LOL.

After Garlasco, it was back into the flatlands. Honestly, I’m getting a little tired of the same scenery. Rice fields are interesting at first, but after a while it’s just field after field, and the novelty fades.

Wrong Way, Right Experience

Mid-morning, I had a gorgeous walk along the riverbanks—idyllic and peaceful. My mind wandered freely, jumping from thought to thought. Unfortunately, I later realized I’d gone completely the wrong direction and had to backtrack nearly four miles. But, as is often the case in travel, the detour ended up being one of the best parts of the day.

Snakes in the Grass

I saw five snakes today. I was genuinely shocked—I had no idea there were so many snakes in this region. Apparently, Northern Italy is home to several snake species, most of them harmless. Most likely, what I saw were harmless grass snakes basking in the heat or slipping into the rice paddies.

Arrival in Pavia

Arriving in Pavia felt like stepping into a different world. After so much flat, rural countryside, Pavia is a breath of fresh air—a bustling city full of life. People were sunbathing on the riverbanks, even though it was just a Tuesday afternoon.

The city has a strong university-town energy. You can feel it the moment you cross the impressive Ponte Coperto, the covered bridge that spans the Ticino River. The streets beyond are wide and busy, lined with shops, cafés, and students rushing (or lounging) around. It’s a great place to wander, eat, and take in the energy of a city that feels alive.

Pavia was once the capital of the Kingdom of the Lombards in the early Middle Ages, and its historical roots run deep. The city has Roman origins and was an important military and cultural center for centuries. It’s home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, founded in 1361!

I met a woman from Dublin who’s been living here for 30 years. She helped me find the apartment I was staying in and gave me great tips on what to see and where to go. The people you meet on the road often make the journey feel even more human—and she was one of those wonderful encounters. Got settled in the apartment then Power Nap!

Spent the afternoon sipping coffee and savoring gelato, then wandered through the town, soaking in the sights. The old city has so much character, and the people are incredibly friendly. It’s the perfect escape from the hustle of the rice fields.

What a fantastic city—charming little restaurants, cozy bars, hidden nooks, and vibrant shops, all with people coming and going. It’s got this great energy. Truly, it’s good to be alive.

Dinner was a delicious Italian meal at a local spot, a perfect way to end the day. Except it included rice! I know I said it would not, but it was good. Tomorrow, it’s back to the grind in the rice fields. But for now, I’ll savor this moment! Ciao.