Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Besançon to Mamirolle

This morning started beautifully under clear skies as I left Besançon. A peaceful riverside walk soon gave way to a steep, relentless climb out of the city — the kind that makes you question your breakfast choices!

Once out of town, I entered the Jura Mountains. Not just gentle hills, these limestone ranges stretch 360 kilometers along the French–Swiss border, formed during the Jurassic period (hence the name). Thick forests, deep ravines, and folded rock formations make for tough but rewarding hiking. I’ll need to adjust my plans over the next few days to match the physical demands of this terrain.

Wandering through shady forests and quiet valleys was a highlight. There’s an ancient silence here that feels almost sacred. Later, I passed peaceful marshlands — flat and still, a welcome break from the climbs.

Thought of the day: Why is the Camino so much more popular? Planning a hike through small French villages is tricky — many lack shops or services, and accommodations often don’t open until 5 p.m., since owners usually run them part-time alongside day jobs. Charming, yes, but inconvenient. It means waiting around or hiking in the heat. And extending your walk can be tough when the next town sometimes doesn’t exist. The Camino’s infrastructure really is a game-changer!

Arriving in Mamirolle

Mamirolle sits on the first Jura plateau, just southeast of Besançon. Its roots go back to the Bronze Age, with Gallo-Roman traces and a first written mention in 1120. Despite burning down multiple times over the centuries, it’s always rebuilt.

Today, it’s best known for its cheese — Fromage de Mamirolle. This semi-soft, cow’s milk cheese has been made here since 1888. Creamy and slightly nutty, it resembles Edam but with a distinctive orange rind from its washed surface. The regional dairy school still trains young cheesemakers from across France. There’s something satisfying about ending a hike in a place so serious about good cheese!

Dinner surprise: A pizza in the middle of an industrial estate sounded questionable but turned out to be one of the best I’ve had — loaded with spicy French meats and topped with friendly, attentive service!

Tomorrow’s plan: Mouthier-Haute-Pierre. More Jura trails ahead — and hopefully another quiet village with cold beer.