Champlitte to Dampierre-sur-Salon

Champlitte had a vibrant energy. The downtown square outside my room pulsed with music from the ’50s to the ’80s—right up until midnight. The locals welcomed me into the bar, bought me drinks, and sent me home with more alcohol than I probably deserved.

Today, I headed for Dampierre-sur-Salon with a spring in my step—though slightly worse for wear. Passing through Little Champlitte, I was lucky—the usually locked church was open. I was invited inside to see the renovations, impressive for such a small population with limited funding.

The question of the day: Is moving to a small French town worth it? Many villages are fading—crumbling houses and half-renovated buildings show more people leaving than arriving. It’s beautiful but isolated, which carries its own cost.

Still, life thrives here. The smell of open-air cooking drifted through villages—families celebrating Sunday with food and gatherings. That warmth can’t be faked.

Today’s six-hour journey ended at a great B&B (Au Bon Vivant) which  includes dinner! This is particularly important on a Sunday as most places are closed! 

Dampierre-sur-Salon is a small, historic town by the Salon River. Once fortified, it still holds old-world charm in its stone buildings. In the 18th century, it became a marquisate, and that noble past lingers.

Now it’s peaceful—more industry than tourism, more local life than postcards. The standout is a massive, now-closed glass hotel—a modern contrast to the weathered surroundings.

Long-distance hiking tests you. The excitement fades, leaving the mental grind—the steady rhythm, long days, blisters, fatigue, and constant calculations of distance and resources.Small wins keep you going. This journey is more than miles—it’s about unexpected moments and connections. Even in the quietest corners, life and hope thrive, making every step worth it.


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One response to “Day 21 FR Champlitte to Dampierre sur Salon”

  1. casualsweetly6601b6fbf2 Avatar
    casualsweetly6601b6fbf2

    Andrew, you are seeing places that are not on the tourist trail. It’s certainly a trip of a lifetime. Look after yourself and especially the feet x

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