Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Siena to Ponte d’Arbia – The Road to Rome Begins

This morning marked a turning point. You could feel it in the air—Siena is definitely a destination town for many pilgrims on the Via Francigena. There was a noticeable drop-off in hikers today, as many people seem to conclude their journey here and catch a train down to Rome. But for those of us continuing on foot, Siena is not the end—just a milestone.

For me, this next phase is all about focus. It’s the road to Rome now, and there’s something thrilling about that. The goal is in sight. The excitement is real. 

Leaving Siena this morning came with its usual challenges. It took nearly 40 minutes of wandering before we found a place that was open and serving coffee. But it was worth the effort—starting a day without a proper mindset (and caffeine!) is a bad idea. That little moment of calm helped reset my focus. 

Siena was beautiful, and I enjoyed my time there, but now it’s about getting to the crown jewel: Rome. From what I’ve heard, arriving there is a moment of triumph unlike any other on this journey.

Along the way today, I met four new hikers—a mother and son who had just started walking from Siena. It was interesting to see how slowly and deliberately they were pacing themselves. Later, I crossed paths with another mother and son duo, this time from Lithuania. It’s always fascinating to see who the trail brings your way.

Most of the crew I’ve been walking with over the past couple of weeks have either finished or moved on. It feels a bit different without them, but there’s something refreshing about meeting new people at this stage. New energy, new conversations—it’s good fuel for the final stretch.

The route from Siena to Ponte d’Arbia covers around 27 kilometers (17 miles), mostly on undulating terrain. While not the most scenic leg of the pilgrimage, it’s a good day to reset mentally. After leaving the city behind, the trail takes you through open countryside, small farms, and quiet backroads.

Midway through the day, the skies turned dark and we got caught in a sudden thunderstorm. There was something almost cinematic about it—just as the monotony of the road started to wear me down, nature decided to remind us who’s really in charge. Wet, muddy, and slightly chilled, but strangely invigorated, we pushed through. I arrived in Ponte d’Arbia around 12 and went to a local Pizzeria! The food was great!!!

The History of Ponte d’Arbia

Ponte d’Arbia is a small village with medieval roots, once an important river crossing on the Via Francigena. The name literally means “Bridge over the Arbia,” and the crossing point dates back to Roman times. Pilgrims have been passing through here for centuries, making it a modest but meaningful part of the journey south. The town itself is tiny, but there’s a comforting simplicity in its quiet streets and the knowledge that you’re walking in the footsteps of thousands who came before.

Staying at the Ostello in Ponte d’Arbia

Tonight, I’m staying in the Ostello Comunale, a humble but warm hostel.

Dinner was a communal affair—big plates of pasta, local wine, and stories from the trail. Laughter came easily. It’s nights like these that remind you why you do something like the Via Francigena. Not just for the scenery or the history, but for the camaraderie. For the shared purpose. For the wine, too—let’s be honest. We have a new crew to push on to Rome!

Onward to Rome…

Each day now feels like a step closer to something greater. There’s still a long way to go, but the path is starting to narrow. The final chapters of this story are being written with every step.