Altopascio to San Miniato
Our morning started with a bit of navigational drama. Maybe it was the wear of early mornings catching up with us, or perhaps the roads were playing tricks, but it took us longer than expected to get out of Altopascio. Finally, around 6:30 a.m., we were on the trail, greeted by cool air—a welcome reprieve from the blistering heat expected later in the day.
With temperatures predicted to soar into the mid-90s by afternoon, our goal was to reach San Miniato by 1 p.m., hoping to avoid hiking through the worst of it.
As we walked, the Tuscan countryside unveiled itself in all its glory. Endless vineyards, golden fields swaying gently in the breeze, and classic Italian farmhouses dotted the landscape like something straight out of a postcard.
The morning air was crisp, and the sky, wide and clear, made it the perfect time for a hike. Initially dragging our feet, we were soon reinvigorated by the sights and sounds around us—nature has a way of lifting the spirit. After an hour, even the three young women we’ve been loosely traveling with seemed recharged, ready to take on the day.
Strangely, my thoughts kept wandering to Ozzy Osbourne. The night before, I’d heard some news about him, which took me back to his concert I saw in 1980. It feels surreal now, knowing he is no longer with us. His music and larger-than-life persona are part of the soundtrack of my youth. What a legend.
Beyond Lucca, the Via Francigena became more lively, with a notable uptick in fellow pilgrims—especially younger travelers in their late teens to mid-20s. It’s inspiring to see the next generation embracing this ancient path. Walking this route is not just about the destination, but about honoring the journey, and it was refreshing to see so many on the same pilgrimage.
Much of today’s hike was shaded by woodland trails. The peaceful forest paths were a welcome relief from the rising sun, with dappled light filtering through the trees and birds singing their timeless songs. It felt almost like stepping into a fairytale.
The Fatigue of the Road
As with any long-distance trek, fatigue eventually settles in. Your legs grow heavy, and your mind starts to wander. The rhythm of walking can be meditative, but there’s also the mental strain of knowing there are miles yet to go. Today was no exception. While the terrain wasn’t difficult, the weight of our journey, now weeks long, was starting to catch up. The trick is learning to embrace the discomfort, to keep pushing forward, and listen to your body when it asks for rest.
As we neared San Miniato, the final stretch tested our endurance. The climb to the hilltop town was steep, and the midday sun beat down on us. But when we finally crested the hill, the sight that awaited us made every step worth it.
San Miniato: A Jewel of Tuscany
San Miniato is perched atop a hill with panoramic views of the Arno Valley below. The town’s history dates back to Roman times and has deep roots in the Middle Ages, once serving as a strategic military and religious center. Walking through its cobblestone streets, you can feel the weight of centuries of history.
From the hilltop, the views were breathtaking. Miles of vineyards, olive groves, and quaint villages stretched out before us. The Arno River snaked through the valley, glinting in the afternoon light. The physical strain of the hike melted away as we took in the vastness of the landscape—a perfect reminder of how small we are in the grand scheme of things.
San Miniato is also famous for its white truffles—some of the finest in Italy. The town’s medieval alleys invite you to slow down and savor the moments, to take in the sights, the sounds, and the flavors of this rich heritage.
A Perfect Evening
After settling in, we strolled around the town, snapping photos of the panoramic views. To our delight, a semi-famous opera singer was performing in the town square. We soaked in the music, letting the beautiful sounds fill the air. Then, we enjoyed a delicious pizza paired with a glass of local beer—an excellent way to end a long day.
We even had the chance to chat with a lively French group of 25 fellow pilgrims, sharing stories and a few laughs. As the day came to a close, I couldn’t help but feel like each day of this journey is getting better and better. The simple pleasures of walking, seeing new places, and meeting kindred spirits make it all worth it.























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