Day 56 IT Lucca to Altopascio

Lucca was amazing. With its intact Renaissance walls, lively piazzas, and relaxed charm, it quickly became one of my favorite stops. I could have stayed longer just wandering its shaded alleys and soaking in the rhythm of local life.

Yesterday’s day off in Pisa was the perfect reset. Visiting the Leaning Tower — iconic and slightly surreal in real life — gave me that light tourist joy. It felt good to just take it all in, no backpack, no miles to cover, just me, a phone camera, and a cone of gelato (or two)!

This morning started with a communal breakfast shared with ten fellow pilgrims from Lithuania, Spain, and Italy — a lively, mixed group swapping stories from the road. Different ages, backgrounds, and languages, but none of that mattered. It was just people on the same journey, headed to Rome. That simple human connection — so raw and real — was the perfect start to the day.

The walk to Altopascio was short — about four hours — and the morning couldn’t have been more beautiful. I walked with Gertrude, a fellow pilgrim I’ll continue on with for the next few days. The trail felt familiar today, more like the Camino — a noticeable shift from the quiet strangeness of France. There are more people now, better facilities, a shared rhythm. It’s comforting.

Along the path, I crossed a large group of university students (25) walking to Siena. It’s the biggest group I’ve seen yet, and their energy added something youthful to the trail. They’ll train to Rome from there, but even this stretch of walking seemed to leave its mark on them.

I’ve been thinking more seriously about learning about art / photography — not just snapping shots, but really seeing. Light, composition, emotion. This trail invites that kind of attention. Every shadow, every stone, every face carries something worth remembering. May be next year I will go on a course.

Midway, I stopped at a winery, Montecarlo. A quiet terrace, a view of vineyards, a glass of red wine, and some local pasta — simple joys that feel earned after days on foot. It reminded me to slow down and savor more moments, not just chase distances.

Altopascio welcomed me quietly. It’s not a flashy town, but it holds weight. Once a vital stop on the Via Francigena — cared for by the Knights Hospitaller — it still has that ancient pilgrim spirit. The cobbled streets and modest facades feel like they’re holding stories just beneath the surface.

Today wasn’t a long walk, but it was rich, with conversation, reflection, and a renewed sense of purpose. As I move closer to Siena and eventually Rome, I’m reminded why I didn’t start this journey in Lucca. As lovely as it is, so much of the soul of this journey lies in the miles that came before — the mountains, the solitude, the slow unraveling of self. Starting closer would have meant missing that!

Tonight, we spent the evening in the main square of Altopascio. It’s a small, quiet town with a charming walled center. While it doesn’t quite compare to the grandeur of places like Lucca or Pisa, there’s something refreshing about its simplicity. Sometimes, slowing down in peaceful spots like this—with a glass of wine in hand—is exactly what you need.

Tomorrow will be a long day, with about 25 miles to the next town. The coming days look to be a quieter stretch, with small towns and countryside before we reach more historic sites along the way. I’m especially looking forward to arriving in Siena, a major milestone on this journey—but it’s still a few days out.

In many ways, this part feels like the gentle calm after the energetic buzz of Lucca and Pisa. A welcome pause before the next big chapter.

Foot note: RIP Ozzy!