Day 53 IT Sarzana to Massa

Sarzana to Massa

I was up early—around 5:00 a.m.—trying to beat the heat. The forecast had promised another scorcher, and I wanted to get most of the walking done before the sun got serious. The day’s destination: Massa.

There were a couple of climbs between Sarzana and Massa, but then the trail flattened out through the valley. The morning air was cool and peaceful as I followed the canals just outside Sarzana. Some sections were a bit rough due to roadwork, but it was still a refreshing start—especially after one too many beers at the guitar festival the night before.

I had met a guy from Korea who was also hiking to Rome. His goal? 45 kilometers a day. Wild. Even I wasn’t that ambitious. He’d left before me in the morning, but by 7:00 a.m., I passed him resting in a field. At that pace, it was going to be a long day for him.

As the sun began to rise over the western mountains, I was already dreading the heat. I was also relieved that the more rugged, forested terrain was behind me—especially after chatting with some locals over dinner the night before. They had mentioned recent wolf sightings in the area. Thankfully, I didn’t run into any.

Carrara

Passing through Carrara felt like stepping into a sculpture. Famous for its white marble, the town wore its legacy proudly—even the sidewalks were marble. Extravagant? Yes. Stunning? Absolutely.

The marble quarries were carved straight into the mountain faces, like massive stone scars. The scale was staggering. No wonder Michelangelo had come here to select his stone—there was a silent grandeur to it all.

Beyond Carrara, a steep climb rewarded me with my first glimpses of the sea. It was one of those moments that made all the effort worth it—mountains behind, ocean ahead, and vineyards tumbling down the hillsides. The wineries in this area were well-known, and it was easy to see why. The landscape was breathtaking. This was as close to the sea as I would get on this journey, but just seeing it gave me a boost of energy.

Arrival in Massa

I reached Massa around noon, right on schedule. Nestled between the Apuan Alps and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Massa had deep historical roots. Once the seat of the powerful Malaspina family, it later became part of the Duchy of Massa and Carrara. Its wealth, unsurprisingly, came from marble.

Today, Massa blended medieval charm with Renaissance flair and a relaxed coastal vibe. The historic center was full of elegant palaces and narrow, shaded streets—an absolute pleasure to wander through.

I stayed at Estello, which turned out to be fantastic—friendly hosts and a great atmosphere. It was the perfect way to end a long, hot day.

Later in the afternoon, I met a local Italian artist working in a nearby shop. We had a great conversation, and they gave me a quick tour. The creative energy in the space was contagious. I really appreciated the Italian rhythm of life—late starts, late dinners, and a focus on enjoying the moment.

There was more live music planned in the square in the evening, but I decided to skip it. The night before, I hadn’t made it back until 2 a.m., and today had been a struggle!!! With tomorrow’s forecast predicting 97°F even at the coast, I plan to be up early and on the road again. Another great day, Cheers!