Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Medesano to Berceto

We left Medesano early this morning under clear skies. The sun was already blazing, promising a scorcher—one of those days where you’re sweating through your shirt by 10 a.m. 

I was already feeling tired—someone showed up at my accommodation around midnight. They’d gotten lost on the trails and needed a place to crash. A good reminder: you have to stay sharp out here.

Today marked a major shift in the journey—I’m now heading south, toward the coast. Between me and the sea lie the upper Apennines: rugged, remote, and ready to test both legs and lungs. There’s at least one mountain pass to cross—maybe two or three days of tough trekking before (hopefully) catching that first glimpse of the water. I’m still not sure how close the trail actually gets to the coast. I should probably look that up…

Looking back, it might’ve been smarter to tackle some this stage yesterday, even with the bad weather. It would’ve made today a little easier. But hey—out here, you live and learn. I logged over 27 miles (44 km) today.

The Apennines may not reach Alpine heights, but don’t let that fool you—they’re just as demanding. With temps climbing into the mid-90s°F (around 35°C), the uphill stretches were brutal. The rocky trails reflect the heat back at you, cooking you from all sides.

The terrain today was incredibly varied. We started along the river and shaded oak groves, which slowly gave way to scrubby hills and rocky ridges as we climbed. The trail wound through medieval hamlets and old pilgrimage routes—we passed a handful of beautiful stone chapels and Romanesque cathedrals with thick walls and narrow arched windows, like something out of a different century.

The toughest part? A relentless 7-mile climb—no switchbacks, no breaks, just steady, punishing ascent. You stop looking for the summit and just focus on the next step.At one point, we crossed paths with two German hikers coming the opposite way. They looked completely wrecked—dusty, dehydrated, and barely upright. I gave them some water and a couple of protein bars. Out here on the Via Francigena, you look out for each other.

Tonight’s stop is Berceto, a quiet mountain village sitting at about 850 meters elevation. It’s full of charm and history, with deep Lombard roots and the beautiful Duomo di San Moderanno, a 12th-century Romanesque cathedral.

Berceto was once a major stop for medieval pilgrims en route to Rome, and it still feels like a place suspended in that rhythm—cobblestone streets, sleepy piazzas, and alpine views in every direction. A perfect place to rest before the next push.

What a fantastic place we’re staying in tonight! It’s called Ostello, and it must be at least two or three hundred years old. The interior feels like something straight out of a Charles Dickens film—rich with history, character, and a certain old-world charm that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Absolutely brilliant.

It was a long, hard day, but deeply rewarding. Reaching the Apennines and turning toward the coast feels like a milestone. The next stretch takes me toward Lucca—and by tomorrow, I’ll be in Tuscany. Wine will definitely be on the agenda. For now, I’m feeling strong. Once the rest of the crew rolls in, we’ll grab a few beers in town. Then it’s early to bed. Tomorrow brings more miles, more mountains—and more memories.