Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Fidenza to Medesano

Started the morning with coffee and cakes — as is now tradition — at a local bakery. At around 8 o’clock, I headed out. I had to modify today’s route due to limited accommodation options in the area, so I’m planning a couple of shorter days. Hopefully, I’ll be back on track in a day or two, heading into the mountains. Should be fun — I’m looking forward to it!

It was a cool, slightly rainy start, which actually felt refreshing. The rain cleared up quickly, and I was ready to roll.

It’s a beautiful Sunday morning, and I walked out of Fidenza along some lovely tree-lined streets. Mornings like this give you time to reflect on the week gone by — and to think about what the next one might bring. I can already see the mountains ahead. We’re definitely heading up — the scenery is about to shift dramatically.

Leaving the Po Valley today felt significant. Just an hour in, the terrain started to change — undulations appeared, and the path began to climb. Looking back, I could see the Po Valley stretched out behind me, peaceful and vast. A gentle reminder of the long, flat miles I’ve covered. It made me smile thinking about some of the moments along the way — especially those legendary rice fields!

By mid-morning, the ups and downs really kicked in. Some of the climbs 10-15% gradients — tough but energizing. I have officially left the flatlands behind and are entering the foothills of the Apennines.

The foothills are a dramatic shift from the wide, open plains. The air is cooler, fresher, and you’re surrounded by forested slopes, vineyards, and hilltop villages that seem to emerge from the landscape like something out of a painting. The walking is more challenging, but the scenery rewards you with every step — birdsong, distant church bells, and panoramic views that make you pause and just take it all in.

Had a great conversation with a guy on a bicycle going the same way. He’s been riding for a month — amazing stamina!

He was telling me that cycling the Via Francigena is no small feat. Riders deal with uneven gravel paths, steep climbs (especially in the Alps), and long stretches without services. It demands endurance and preparation — not just physically, but logistically. Meeting someone who’s been cycling it for a month gives you a real sense of the commitment and passion involved.

Saw lots of horse riders on the trail today — probably 10 to 15 in total. I didn’t expect to see so many, but it turns out riding the Via Francigena on horseback is quite popular in Italy. It adds a very old-world charm to the experience — like stepping back into a time when pilgrims would have traveled this route on foot or horseback. I should point out that some of the horses were agitated by my orange gear! Lol

Emilia-Romagna is known for producing excellent wines. Around here, you’ll find Gutturnio, a bold red made from Barbera and Croatina grapes, often slightly fizzy and rustic. I will try it tonight!!

Arrived in Medesano around 12:15 p.m. — not my original destination. The plan was to walk another 8 miles, but there was no accommodation available in the next planned stop. So, I cut the day short and enjoyed a small beer and ice cream in the early afternoon — well earned and very satisfying.

Medesano is a small town in the province of Parma, nestled near the Taro River. The town sits along old pilgrimage routes and has long served as a stop for travelers crossing the Apennines. Its historic churches and peaceful countryside reflect a slower, more traditional rhythm of life in rural Italy.

Checked into my accommodation and was greeted by a young guy from India who’s studying in Italy. A big cricket enthusiast — we ended up chatting about British cricket history and some of the matches I’ve seen. An unexpected but fun cultural crossover!

Tonight, I spent some time planning. Accommodation is becoming a bit tricky again in the foothills — many places are small and don’t respond on Sundays. I think the best strategy is to set off early tomorrow and find a place on the way. Getting anyone to answer the phone today felt like Mission: Impossible!

We had a great pizza at the local pizzeria along with two Moratti beers. After three or maybe four beers, we talked about the plan for tomorrow. Honestly, I’m not too sure what we decided—I’ll probably remember it tomorrow, but that’s a problem for future me!