Day 45 IT Orio Litta to Piacenza

Orio Litta to Piacenza – Along the Po

Oscar showed up late last night — it was great to see him and share a beer. Today’s his last day on the Via Francigena before heading home and picking it up again next year. It’s bittersweet. Walking together, even briefly, reminds me how these paths bring people together in special ways.

What a glorious morning leaving Orio Litta. I had been reading some local history and came across a curious — and slightly unsettling — fact: in the 1700s, 16 people were attacked by Arabian wolves in this area, and 14 of them died. So… I kept an eye out for any lurking wildlife, just in case.

Four of us set off together, heading toward the Po River for a short boat ride. It felt great to be with fellow pilgrims again. One thing I’ve noticed about the Via Francigena compared to the Camino is that it’s much less crowded, especially in the northern stretches. But deeper into Italy, the number of pilgrims is gradually increasing. It feels more connected.

We arrived at the riverbank about 30 minutes early. The Po is much larger than I expected — not as fast-flowing as the rivers near the Alps, but wide and commanding. The boat wasn’t exactly a palatial yacht, but the ride was a real treat. The breeze on the water, the sun warming our backs — perfect.

Our captain told us that the river had dropped 20 to 30 feet in just the past month — a stark reminder of the ongoing drought and climate shifts. He also shared a bit of history:
The Po River has been a lifeline for northern Italy since ancient times. It was used by the Romans to transport goods and troops. Orio Litta itself was historically a crossing point for pilgrims heading to Rome, with boatmen ferrying travelers across for centuries.

After docking, we signed the annual pilgrims’ register. I’m the 771st person to pass this way on the Via Francigena this year — a small milestone that made me smile. From here, it’s 588 km to Rome!

After a few group photos, we continued toward Piacenza.

About 2 km in, we stopped for a much-needed coffee break — and for me, a gelato. It’s becoming something of a ritual, and I’m not complaining. We also took time to plan our next few days and secure accommodation.

One lovely thing I’ve noticed in Italy is how older people gather at local cafés during the day. They chat, sip espresso, and share stories. It’s a deeply rooted part of the culture — perhaps even tied to Italy’s “Blue Zone” lifestyle, where people tend to live longer, healthier lives. Community and connection clearly play a role.

The walk into Piacenza took another two hours, and the heat was starting to build. We arrived in the main square, where several statues and historic buildings welcome you into the heart of the city. At that point, we all split up — Oscar headed home, while the others went off to their accommodations.

A bit of Piacenza’s history:

Founded by the Romans in 218 BCE, Piacenza has long been a strategic city due to its location at the crossroads of major trade and pilgrimage routes. The Piazza Cavalli, with its iconic equestrian statues, is a reminder of its political and military significance.

What a great day. The boat ride was a highlight, and Piacenza — with its elegant square, historic charm, and local cuisine — was the perfect end.

I tried a local pasta dish and a crisp white wine that paired beautifully. We finished the night drinking beer on the Piazza. I’m not sure it gets much better than this. This trip is challenging, but the rewards are rich and fulfilling. Tomorrow, I head toward the Apennines. Onward!