Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Pavia, Santa Cristina e Bissone to Orio Litta

5:45 AM – Pavia Awakes
A glorious morning. The air is crisp, the skies spotless, and the city is just beginning to stir. Cafés are setting up along sidewalks, the scent of espresso wafting through the air. I’m amazed at how these places thrive—hundreds of cafés, all humming with life. Apparently, no one drinks coffee at home in Italy. It’s all part of the rhythm of the morning.

Leaving Pavia took nearly an hour—a reminder of how large and varied the city is. Industrial zones fade into elegant old quarters along the river, and even some surprisingly spacious parks. A well-balanced place, really.

Back to the Fields
Just outside the city, I noticed slight undulations in the landscape—hints, maybe, that the endless rice plains are nearing their end. (Fingers crossed.) But just past the last buildings… the rice fields returned. Lush, green, and stretching forever. My old, familiar companions.

Walking through miles of flooded paddies is both meditative and maddening. At first, it’s beautiful: the flat land reflecting sky, the gentle crunch of gravel, birdsong in the distance. But after a few hours, the monotony sets in. The landscape blurs, and it’s easy to lose your sense of time and space. Like Tom Hanks in Cast Away, I might need to name a rice paddy “Wilson” soon.

In the distance, I can finally see mountains beginning to rise. A sign of change ahead—unless there’s such a thing as hilltop rice, which I sincerely hope not.

Encounters and Observations
I ran into the guy from Cologne again—he started walking at 4:00 AM. That’s early, even by pilgrim standards. We both agreed: today and maybe tomorrow need to be our last days in rice field limbo.

Honestly, the dedication of some pilgrims is staggering. Walking through the night with nothing but a headlamp and sheer will—it’s a special kind of madness. And a special kind of respect.

Santa Cristina e Bissone – Midday Pause
Stopped here for coffee and ice cream (my new favorite combo). At 11 AM, the locals were already out, playing cards and drinking wine. The game got intense fast—lots of shouting in what I thinkwas good humor. I couldn’t understand a word, but it was lively, and life was spilling out onto the streets in that beautiful Italian way.

This small town has deep roots along the Via Francigena. In medieval times, it was a key rest stop for pilgrims en route to Rome. Its quiet charm and rural pace make it a perfect spot to catch your breath.

Vineyards & Changing Terrain
Back on the trail, I began seeing vineyards climbing the hillsides—at last, signs we’re moving out of the Po Valley. The terrain is shifting. The crops are more varied, and there’s that unmistakable sense of heading somewhere new.

Random thought of the day: Why is Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs so popular in Italy? I’ve seen houses decorated with them—on doors, in gardens, even carved into stone. No idea why. But it’s kind of charming.

Arrival in Orio Litta:
This lovely village is historically tied to the ancient pilgrim ferry crossing known as the Transitum Padi, once used to cross the River Po. Today, it still embraces that spirit of hospitality with well-organized pilgrim accommodations and warm local energy.

Before a few beers I visited Villa Litta Carini which is a remarkable Baroque residence, dating back to t he late 1600s. It’s undoubtedly one of the largest and most grandiose houses I’ve ever seen. While the property is currently in a state of significant disrepair, the structural foundation remains absolutely magnificent. I’ve heard it recently sold—what a massive project for the new owners!

I’m staying at the Pilgrim Hostel tonight—one of the nicest so far. Hot showers, washing machines, friendly faces. After a long day, it’s a real gift to land somewhere clean and welcoming.

Dinner was at the local sports bar—a no-frills plate of pasta and a cold drink. Honestly, it hit the spot. I even had a laugh with a group of Italian bike-riding pilgrims. There’s a comfort in being around others who are going through the same physical and mental journey.

Final Thought:
I’m finally out of the rice maze. A long, good day—progress made, spirits high. More adventures await in the morning.