Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Santhià to Vercelli 

I woke to the sound of ominous thunder rumbling in the distance. Not the most promising start to a hiking day. By 5 a.m., I checked the weather: a mass of thunderstorms surrounded my intended route. So I paused, took a breath, and decided to wait until mid-morning to reassess the storm’s path and the temperature.

With no shelter for miles along my original trail, hiking into the afternoon heat wasn’t an option. I made the call to reroute—safety first—and replan my day with a new destination.

The terrain between Santhià and Vercelli is about as flat as it gets. This part of northern Italy lies in the heart of the Po Valley, a region that has produced rice for centuries. In fact, it’s one of the largest rice-producing areas in Europe. Miles upon miles of flooded paddies stretch across the landscape, dotted with egrets and crisscrossed by ancient irrigation canals. Corn and wheat fields patch in between, but rice dominates. I couldn’t help but think—it’s as flat as Kansas, but with more risotto! 

In Vercelli, I met some truly fantastic locals—warm, generous, and eager to show off their city. Their passion made me feel instantly welcome. I wandered into a lively street market and tried something new: donkey sausage. Yes, you read that right. Strange? Definitely. But not bad at all—slightly gamey with a surprisingly mellow flavor.

Vercelli is one of northern Italy’s oldest cities, founded by Celtic tribes and later becoming a Roman town. In the Middle Ages, it flourished as a religious and cultural center, even hosting one of Europe’s first universities in 1228. It’s also known for the Vercelli Book, a rare Old English manuscript. Today, echoes of its rich past live on in its churches, streets, and lively piazzas.

Turns out, I arrived just in time for La Notte Bianca—the White Night music and cultural festival. The entire city center stays awake with open museums, late-night shops, pop-up concerts, and food trucks galore. Music fills the piazzas. Lights glow from balconies. It feels like the whole town is celebrating summer.

And all of this… in the middle of rice country! I truly didn’t expect such a dynamic cityscape surrounded by fields. It’s an incredible contrast and one that makes Vercelli stand out.

Final Thoughts

The day didn’t start how I’d planned, but the re-route worked out brilliantly. I got some solid rest, avoided the worst of the weather, and discovered a gem of a city—great food, rich culture, and even better people. Sometimes you just have to go with the flow.

Tonight I had a flashback to the ’70s—Boney M’s Rasputin followed by Barry White. I don’t think I’ve heard those songs since I was a kid at Dodge Hill, eating taterash on Bonfire Night with Agnes and Bill Frost. Good times! This trip just keeps surprising me—odd and outstanding in equal measure.

It’s nearly 12:30 AM now. I’ve had probably too many wines… and definitely too many beers. Tomorrow is officially a day off. No choice in the matter—LOL!