Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Point Saint Martin to Ivrea

Last night, as I enjoyed yet another pizza, I met two fellow hikers doing the Via Francigena—one from the UK, the other from Germany. We shared a beer, swapped trail stories, and laughed about the challenges of the journey. It was the perfect way to wind down after a long day.

I set off this morning at 6:30, already feeling the intense heat that was sure to come. I knew I had to reach my destination early, even if it meant arriving before my room was ready. A small surprise came when I passed a bar I’d seen closed the night before. This time, at 6:30 in the morning, it was buzzing with life—locals already enjoying their beers. Unbelievable!

The day’s route followed the SS 26, a chaotic highway that reminded me of the A6 in the UK—or maybe Wendover, USA. Italian drivers were all over the place, making the journey feel like a scene from an action movie. Tiny European micro-cars darted in and out of traffic, making me feel like I was in a race, just trying to keep up.

As I moved forward, the mountains slowly receded behind me, giving way to the broad expanse of Piemonte. Known for its stunning vineyards, rich cultural heritage, and iconic wines, this region felt like a peaceful retreat after the rugged mountain terrain. The transition from towering peaks to rolling hills and wide-open valleys is bittersweet, but there’s something soothing about these expansive horizons.

The Via Francigena is perfect for meeting people at different stages of their journey. I’m currently ahead of Joanna, who’s a stage behind, and Oscar has taken a few days off in Aosta. There’s a unique bond that forms among those of us pushing through the same challenges—it’s a friendship built on shared struggles, victories, and endless conversations about what lies ahead.

As I hiked through the rolling hills and vineyards, it was impossible not to notice Piemonte’s rich wine culture. The region is famous for wines like Barolo and Dolcetto, and the vineyards line the trail at nearly every turn. Just like the Camino in Spain, the Via Francigena seems to route itself through town after town, creating opportunities for local businesses to thrive—and for us pilgrims to enjoy the fruits of the region’s labor.

The valley really opened up today, but so did the heat. With Europe in the grip of a severe heatwave, I’m adjusting my schedule to start even earlier in the mornings to avoid the worst of the sun.

A notable contrast I’ve noticed recently is the difference in attitudes between the Italians and the Swiss. Italians are incredibly laid-back, while the Swiss tend to be more punctual and serious—quite the cultural shift as I continue south.

I passed through Azeglio, a charming village with cobbled streets and a welcoming vibe. After a quick rest, I continued through the vineyards, heading towards Castello di Montalto Dora. Perched high on a hill, this medieval castle offers breathtaking views of the valley, and I couldn’t resist stopping for a moment to soak in the scenery. It’s humbling to think about the history embedded in this place, dating all the way back to the 11th century.

The final stretch of the day led me to Ivrea, a town steeped in medieval history and famous for its annual Battle of the Oranges during Carnival. Ivrea is also known for its industrial heritage—once the home of the Olivetti company. After a scenic hike around lakes and affluent areas, I descended into the old town. I took a break for coffee and discovered that the local river had been modified for Olympic canoeing teams to train. Watching local school kids practice their strokes on the river was nothing short of impressive.

Dinner tonight was in the old town, shared with Patrick, a fellow hiker from the UK. It was another evening of good food, great conversation, and more beer—both local and international. Another day on the Via Francigena, full of new experiences, challenges, and friendships. Ivrea is a great little city with a good vibe, and a record store! 

That’s all for today. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!