Day 33 SW Martigny to Orsières.

Martigny to Orsières – A Hike into the Heart of the Alps

I set off from Martigny this morning at 6:30 a.m., greeted by the soft glow of early sunlight and a sense of anticipation. The first rays bathed the mountains in gold, casting long shadows across the peaks—a breathtaking start to the day.

Not long into the climb, I met a woman hiking solo, radiating energy and purpose. As we chatted, she told me her father had served as a guard in the Vatican, part of the elite Swiss Guard and she was on her way to Rome. It’s moments like these that remind me how many fascinating stories are hidden behind the faces of fellow travelers on these ancient paths.

The route from Martigny to Orsières is a challenging one. In some sections, steep cliffs loom on either side, demanding focus—not just on my footing but also on keeping up with my “goal pace” (or, as autocorrect would have it, my “gold pants”). It was one of those days when the landscape takes your breath away—both from its beauty and the sheer effort required.

I crossed high-altitude plains, descended past roaring mountain streams, and entered dense alpine forests. At one point, I walked along historic Napoleon’s Road—used by Napoleon Bonaparte’s army during his 1800 campaign across the Great St. Bernard Pass. Today, this same route forms part of the Via Francigena.

Switzerland continues to amaze me. The landscapes are majestic, the people warm and welcoming, and the overall vibe so peaceful and grounding.

Orsières – A Historical Crossroads

Orsières is a town with a rich history, nestled at the foot of the Great St. Bernard Pass. For centuries, it has been a key stop for travelers crossing the Alps. Its strategic location made it a hub during the Roman era and later for pilgrims on the Via Francigena.

Today, the town retains its charm, with narrow streets and old buildings that reflect its storied past. Later in the evening, I experienced the lively atmosphere of a Friday night in Orsières. The town was buzzing with locals and the fire brigade, who had gathered for a traditional dance party. It was an unexpected and delightful surprise.

Then there was Oscar, another Brit I met at a pizza place (a fun guy), and the multilingual server who seemed to speak every language on earth—except Japanese. Moments like that always remind me how connected, yet wonderfully diverse, this part of Europe is.

All in all, it was a fantastic hiking day through some of the world’s most stunning landscapes. Truly amazing!