Day 20 FR Chalindrey to Champlitte

Chalindrey to Coublanc, then Champlitte

What a great start to the day—a full breakfast that truly hit the spot. The coffee was strong, the bread was as fresh as ever, but the homemade jams and local honey? Next level.

I really enjoyed my stay in Chalindrey. The family who hosted me was incredibly welcoming, and the facilities were top-notch. It’s funny how quickly you adapt to staying in strangers’ homes—there’s something comforting and surprisingly natural about it when you’re on a journey like this.

The morning was calm and serene. No breeze, just still air and birdsong—pure peace. It was just me and the open countryside, with no one else in sight.

After Langres, the scenery began to shift. The flat farmland slowly gave way to rolling pastures and denser forest. It’s clear I’m leaving the heartland behind—Jura Mountains, here I come! I say that with excitement… and a little trepidation. They’re only a few days ahead now, and let’s be honest: hiking through those peaks won’t be a walk in the park. These legs are going to earn every kilometer.

Thought of the day: It’s striking how much people still live off the land in rural France. Even in towns, I pass vegetable gardens, fruit trees, and chicken coops. Today, a local farmer shared fresh cherries with me right off the branch—no ceremony, just a smile and a handful of fruit. It’s moments like that that make this whole journey unforgettable.

The afternoon heat, however, was brutal. Scorching sun, barely any shade, and long stretches of exposed road. This wasn’t just a walk—it was a slog. That said, my spirits stayed high. Hydration, stubbornness, and a decent playlist go a long way.

An interesting shift: I’ve started seeing more Via Francigena signs. It’s beginning to feel more organized and purposeful, similar to the Camino in some ways. The rhythm of the route is settling in, the body’s adjusting, and life on the trail is good. I arrived in Champlitte around 2 p.m., after nearly six solid hours of walking—my feet definitely earned their rest.

Champlitte and Its Château

Champlitte is a charming little town with roots that stretch all the way back to Roman times. Its crown jewel is the Château de Champlitte, which sits proudly on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside.

Originally a medieval fortress, the château was rebuilt in the 18th century after a devastating fire. These days, it’s home to the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions, with some excellent traveling exhibits. The staff gave me a personal tour—unexpected, and very much appreciated. A hidden gem in the heart of rural France!

As for tonight… well, any dreams of an early night have been cheerfully crushed. A local band has set up just outside my window, and they’re enthusiastically performing Elvis covers—in French. There’s something oddly delightful about hearing “J’ai perdu mon amour dans un hôtel de cœur brisé.” I may not sleep, but at least I’ll be entertained.