Lord Colliers Active Retirement Life

Langres to Chalindrey:

Langres has been good to me! What a fascinating, character-filled place — rich in history and full of warm, welcoming people and I got some new shoes!!!

This morning, I set off right in the middle of Langres’ bustling Friday market. Vibrant local produce, and locals going about their day, as only they can! As I walked out of town, the noise and energy gradually gave way to the quiet rhythm of smaller villages. That transition — from busy to still — always feels calming.

Along the way, I found myself reflecting on the choices I’ve made lately — what I can live with, and what I can live without. My backpack is becoming a symbol of that. It’s too heavy for these distances, and it’s time to change! A few things will have to be left behind. That’s part of the journey too: lightening the load, both physically and mentally.

Thought of the day:

Why do so many French people smoke in France? I’ve noticed it everywhere — outside cafés, at train stations, walking through tiny villages at 8 in the morning. It’s not just the older generation either; young people light up casually, often without a second thought.

There’s something about it that feels distinctly French — not glamorous, exactly, but somehow part of the national rhythm.

A highlight today was meeting an elderly farmer, easily in his 80s, still working the land with a smile on his face. He was inspiring — one of those rare people who quietly remind you what joy and purpose look like. Meeting him felt like a real privilege.

Not long after, a Rafale fighter jet roared across the sky — dramatic and deafening above the wide, open farmland. (They’re manufactured not far from here, in this region of eastern France.) The contrast between cutting-edge aviation and timeless countryside was striking.

Later, I stopped at Château du Pailly, a truly stunning Renaissance castle not far from Chalindrey. A another highlight of the day. The château was built in the 16th century by Gaspard de Saulx-Tavannes, a Marshal of France under King Henry II. It blends French Renaissance architecture with Italian influence, thanks to artisans from Italy who helped construct it. Today, it stands proud — elegant, commanding, and steeped in history.

As luck would have it, there’s a Via Francigena conference happening there tomorrow — I’ll miss it, but it’s heartening to know this old pilgrimage route is still celebrated and honored.

Chalindrey, just a little further on, was once a vital railway junction and a strategic hub for moving people and supplies across eastern France. It’s quieter now, but the crossroads feel is still there.

Evenings here have their own rhythm. I’ve come to really enjoy the French apéro culture — people gathering from 6 to 8 p.m., chatting, laughing, and sharing stories over a glass or two. It feels social in the best way: relaxed, grounded, human.

The heat today was brutal — well over 32°C (well into the 90s Fahrenheit). My shoes and feet held up, just about, but I kept it short. I’ll be setting off early tomorrow toward Champlitte, hoping to beat the worst of it.