Day 16 FR Dienville to Dolancourt

Dienville to Dolancourt. A Day of Contrasts: Solitude, Frustration, and Beauty in Rural France.

The morning began beautifully. I sat at the pod, sipping a cup of Earl Grey, reflecting on the journey ahead—today’s stretch was a short one. At first, I felt disappointed that my booking didn’t allow me to push further along the route. Accommodation has proven hard to secure, which can be frustrating. But with some quiet time and tea came a shift in perspective.

As the day unfolded, my spirits lifted. The weather was perfect—clear skies and warm light. My feet, admittedly, are far from perfect, but overall, I’m holding up well. The path led me through quaint villages, eventually opening out into vast plains of cornfields that seemed to stretch forever. Standing in the middle of them, I felt incredibly small, but in a good way—like a gentle reminder of just how wide the world is. It’s humbling and grounding.

What was meant to be a short walk to Dolancourt turned into a surprisingly long day, thanks to connectivity issues that derailed my plans. I spent hours trying to resolve the problem, and by the time I set off properly, I was relying on a piece of paper for directions—not exactly ideal in the digital age.

The stark reality of this region hit hard today. Many of the villages I passed through had no shops, no cafés, no signs of services at all. It’s a challenge—not so much physically, but logistically. There’s a real lack of infrastructure to support walkers on this route, which is something that needs to change if it’s to become a well-travelled path in the future. This is something that the Camino has got covered!

Arrival in Dolancourt: A Quiet Village with a Playful Twist

I finally arrived in Dolancourt, a quiet village in the Aube department of northeastern France. With just a few hundred residents, it’s the kind of place you might expect to simply pass through—but there’s more here than meets the eye.

Surprisingly, Dolancourt is home to a full-fledged funfair—Nigloland, one of France’s most popular amusement parks. The contrast between the rural silence and the playful hum of the park is striking and, in its own way, oddly charming.

The village itself dates back centuries and is typical of the Champagne region, with its traditional houses and a peaceful, pastoral feel. Dolancourt and the surrounding area have historically been agricultural, and today, it offers a snapshot of small-town life in rural France—albeit one with a bit of unexpected entertainment on the side.

A Silver Lining

Tonight’s hosts are fantastic and the property is amazing! The stay also includes breakfast, which feels like a luxury after the day I’ve had. Sometimes, it’s the small comforts—warm tea, a good bed, a surprise funfair—that help you keep going.