Day 10 FR Tergnier to Laon

Tergnier to Laon – A Rainy Climb to Medieval Heights
Today was tough—but incredibly rewarding.
I set off from Tergnier just after 7 a.m., making my way toward the historic hilltop town of Laon. But before I get into the day’s journey, I have to mention last night’s accommodation. Nestled between a kebab house and a bar, it wasn’t exactly luxury, but it gave me an unexpected glimpse into local life.

This bar wasn’t like any I’ve seen before. It was part newsagent, part pub—a true community hub. Locals would drop in as early as 6 a.m. to grab a newspaper and a pint. By 7, the place was already buzzing. It felt strange at first, but there was something endearing about it. It’s these little cultural quirks that make the journey all the more memorable.

Endless Rain and the Poncho’s Grand Return
About an hour into the walk, the rain started—and didn’t stop. It followed me the entire way to Laon, which I reached around 2:30 p.m., soaked but relieved. The poncho made a necessary comeback today.
The terrain was fairly consistent with previous days—gentle rolling countryside, open fields, quiet roads—but Laon was a dramatic shift. Perched high on a hill, it has held strategic importance for centuries, and as a walker, I could see why: the final mile of my 25-mile trek was a steep, unforgiving climb. After a long, wet day, that incline nearly broke me. But wow—was it worth it.

Laon: A City with Centuries Beneath Its Stones
Walking into Laon feels like stepping through a portal in time. This ancient city—once the capital of the Carolingian Empire—has been a key player in French history. Its hilltop location made it a natural fortress, and for centuries, it was both a spiritual and political center.
At the heart of the town stands Laon Cathedral, one of the earliest and best-preserved examples of Gothic architecture in France. It predates even Notre-Dame in Paris and served as a blueprint for many cathedrals that followed. As I wandered the narrow streets this evening, I could almost hear the echoes of medieval monks, revolutionaries, and soldiers who once walked the same paths.

An Attic Room from a Dickens Novel
Tonight’s accommodation is a stark contrast to last night’s. I’m staying in a charming attic apartment, up a worn spiral staircase that feels straight out of Oliver Twist. It’s quirky, old, and full of character—the kind of place you wouldn’t find unless you were truly wandering.

A Town That Comes Alive at Night
Laon itself is breathtaking. A medieval town with winding cobbled streets, stone buildings, and a sense of timelessness that hits you as soon as you arrive. The city seems to rise from the landscape, with views stretching across the surrounding countryside.
As night falls, little jazz bars and cosy restaurants appear like well-kept secrets. There’s music in the air, candlelight in the windows, and a genuine warmth that contrasts beautifully with the day’s grey skies.

Final Thoughts
Despite the rain and the tough climb, today was unforgettable. From early morning beers in Tergnier to the historic heights of Laon, it’s days like this that make long-distance walking an adventure worth every step.