Day 6 FR Amettes to Saint-Nazaire

On a warm summer day, the journey from Amettes to Baubigny-de-Burseier and onward to Saint-Nazaire unfolds like a peaceful tapestry of northern France. The path winds through serene farmland, gently rolling hills, and the quiet backroads of countryside villages. The midday heat can be intense, making early morning or late afternoon walks far more comfortable—and far more rewarding. Along the way, the shade of tall trees and the occasional village café or fountain offer welcome moments of rest and refreshment.

This stretch of the journey is rich in both natural beauty and historical significance. Scattered throughout are charming rural churches and solemn war memorials, each echoing the layered history of the Pas-de-Calais and Loire-Atlantique regions. As the trail nears Saint-Nazaire, it crescendos into a deeply moving experience with a visit to Notre-Dame de Lorette.

Perched on a ridge in northern France, Notre-Dame de Lorette is the largest military cemetery in the country. A sacred site of remembrance, it honors the countless lives lost in World War I. Rows upon rows of white crosses stretch into the distance, surrounding an imposing ossuary and a serene neo-Byzantine basilica. At its center stands a tall lantern tower, its light burning each night in eternal tribute to those who never returned.

Just beside the cemetery lies the remarkable Ring of Remembrance, a modern memorial added in 2014 that left a deep impression on me. Nearly 600,000 names—French, German, British, and others—are inscribed side by side, listed alphabetically without regard to nationality or rank. It’s a powerful, humbling place that transcends borders and invites quiet reflection. Among those names, I found the Colliers—an incredibly personal and poignant moment I won’t soon forget.p

This evening was made all the more special thanks to two fantastic hosts, Claire and Mark. Generous, warm, and deeply knowledgeable about the Via Francigena, they welcomed me with open arms. Over a delicious meal, we revisited my walking plan and, with their insight and experience, reshaped it into something far more logical and fulfilling. I’m beyond grateful for their guidance and hospitality.


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